March 12 – Burlington, ON to Rock Hill, S.C. – 1,269 km

We left at an indecent hour so as to avoid any border jams it being the start of Spring Break. The crossing itself was quite comical and we were through in no time. Even with me having to go inside. It was incredibly dark out and started to snow as we left the Lewiston Crossing on our way to South Carolina which is where I am sitting right now. We had croissants with Nutella that I had prepared before the drive and some tea after we crossed the border. We listened to music and my daughter watched a bit of a movie she had downloaded at home. Once we got well past Buffalo and the skies started to grow lighter, we stopped at our first rest stop. It was there that we decided to pick a historic spot along the way from our National Parks guide. So, the small detour was punched into the GPS and we were back on the road with a stop at Friendship Hill along the way. Yes it added 30 minutes to the driving time but … we ended up on such beautiful roads along the Mahalgany River that I didn’t even notice. Once there, I was surprised to find out how many things Albert Gallatin had influenced or started up back in the early 1800’s! We enjoyed stretching our legs walking along the beautiful paths up to the old house.

Back in the car, we continued on our way to Rock Hill SC. The scenery unfolding outside the car was stunning. The 90 is definitely a road worth travelling. After a while in the car, the body started squawking about having needs so I started to keep an eye out for a rest area or a small town to pull over in. This is when we saw another National Parks sign on the left. Quick decision made and we pulled onto the road which led to the large parking lot by the visitor centre. And wow!! What an incredible find. New River Gorge is breathtaking! We made a quick stop to use the facilities and then took our time exploring the sights. There is a small patio off the visitor centre where you can look down at the river which is quite a ways below you. We decided to follow the little path to the lookout and made our way down the wooden stairs to the main platform. The rapids were glistening in the sun while the turkey vultures played in the updrafts. From here, we also had an incredible view of the bridge which spans across the vast canyon. One sign we saw later as we drove across that bridge on our way to Rock Hill, SC claimed that this is the longest arched bridge in the Western Hemisphere! Well then!

We slowly made our way back to the car and continued on along the 90. Crossing the New River Gorge Bridge, we were able to see again how incredibly wide and deep this canyon is.  Aydn and I decided then and there that we would have to plan a camping trip in this area within the next year.

We made it to Rock Hill without any incident. The check-in at the Hotel was great and the room clean and spacious. It was even equipped with a small fridge and microwave! Once again, our bodies demanded we pay a little attention to them and we drove one highway exit, less than 7 minutes, to get to a variety of restaurants and opted to fill our bellies with Olive Garden. A short while later we found ourselves well on the way to dream land with the prospect of more adventures the following day.

March 13 – Rock Hill, SC to Tybee Island, GA – 406 km

We rose early to light rain. Once the car was packed, we went back in for the hotel breakfast. Always a good idea to fill up on what is provided with your stay. Even if it is at an ungodly hour. Today was to be a bit of a shorter drive. I had planned it that way so we could stop at Congaree National Park along the way. From the hotel itself, it was only going to be an hour and twenty minutes. We took off along the I-77 South as the sun was slowly rising across the South Carolina skies. From the I-77 we hopped onto the SC-48 E and then took Old Bluff Road. The drive to the entrance of the park itself was incredibly beautiful. The road was heavily lined with trees and purple wisteria had taken over large areas to the left and right of us. We turned into the national park and followed a small road to the visitor centre. The wooden building stood perfectly camouflaged among the towering trees. We went inside for a trail map and were provided a lot of good information from the two young people working there. We decided that, since we had time, the best path for us would be to take the boardwalk out to the Weston Lake loop. As soon as we walked out onto the raised boardwalk, a pileated woodpecker landed in a flurry of red, black and white. At seems we had arrived at the start of breeding season!

Despite the cold, we were able to enjoy the walk along the boardwalk which leads through a unique bottomland hardwood forest. On we went past Bald Cypress proudly reaching skyward from the water. Once we got off the boardwalk to follow the Weston Lake Loop trail, we were greeted by a myriad of song birds. My daughter and I walked in silence listening to the many sounds of nature, often stopping for a moment to take it all in. The landscape itself is indescribably beautiful. We walked past water, over and under fallen trees, flowering dogwood, large pines and countless cypress trees. Weston Lake itself was framed by a wall of bald cypress, the beautiful glassy surface reflecting its peaceful surroundings. The walk back along the raised main boardwalk took us past large patches of palmettos, stately pines and sweetbay magnolias. Truly a refreshing experience for mind, body and soul. A little reluctantly, we got back in the car. Okay, so the cold gave us a helpful nudge to seek shelter in the warmth of our road trip mobile. That and the fact that we were now just under 3 hours from our final destination!!

We turned right out of the park and rejoined the SC-48 E down to the SC-267 S which took us straight onto the I 95 South. Beyond Hardeeville, we turned onto the US-17 S which led us past Savannah National Wildlife Refuge. I made a mental note to look this up online once we got checked in and settled. The first bridge leads across the Little Back River and gives a taste of what this place holds in store. Past Hutchinson Island and across the stunning Talmadge Memorial Bridge spanning the Savannah River. Excitement mounting, we turned onto 25, Oglethorpe Street, heavily lined with majestic oaks draped in Spanish moss. Truly a breathtaking experience and, after wanting to come here for 20 years, a sight that may or may not have brought a tear to my eyes. We continued along to the end of Oglethorpe and made our way onto US-80 E, Island Expressway.

Here, the landscape is riddled with tendrils of water snaking through the saltwater marshes so that the road crosses a few bridges. Near Fort Pulaski, you are almost level with the water, depending on how high the tide is which creeps its way inland along the waterways. One more bridge and we were on Tybee Island. Colourful buildings line 80 and we made our way to the Inn slowly. I had the GPS programmed with the address but, with all these little streets that looked like they could barely fit one car, I kept driving past the one we needed. It wasn’t until a little while later, when Aydn and I were walking around that we realized why we hadn’t seen any traditional street signs! The street signs aren’t up high like we are accustomed to but rather white wooden posts stuck in the ground with the name carved vertically. Just one more thing adding to the charm of this wonderful location.

We parked our car and walked into the welcoming little lobby where we were greeted by Jay and Susan, two wonderful people who made our stay on Tybee Island that much more memorable. After checking out our room which came complete with small fridge and microwave, we decided to head back over to the Tourist Information Centre for some much-needed sightseeing advice. Before making our way to the grocery store to stock up on lunch food and snacks for the next few days.

After dinner, at Lighthouse Pizza, a small diner with food made to order, we went for a walk along the beach and the pier in the light evening drizzle. A flock of pelican flew past us in the semi dark. A beautiful ending to an incredible day.

March 14 – Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil

Today was the day!! The long-awaited tour of Savannah and the only way any Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil fan should experience this marvelous city. We parked at the Visitors Information Center on Martin Luther King Jr. where we were picked up by Angela of Savannah Heritage Tours for our adventure. We started with a tour through historic Savannah while Angela regaled us with the stories of the characters in the book and movie as well as their real-life counterparts. We were dropped off at the Mercer-Williams House for a tour as part of the experience. It is truly a breathtaking building from the inside and out. The Mercer-Williams House started being build in 1860. James Williams purchased the house, which takes up an entire city block, and, after a lengthy restoration, makes it his personal residence. He ran his antiques business out of the carriage house located at the rear of this stunning mansion. Despite only having access to the main floor of the house and the garden as the upper floor is a private residence, we were not disappointed. The house is filled with James Williams’ private collection of art and furniture from the 18^th and 19^th century. There are even some earlier pieces.

After our stop at the mansion, we were picked up by Angela and our day continued through more of historic Savannah. We made our way out to Bonaventure Cemetery for our final stop. Bonaventure Cemetery is something not to be missed on your visit to Savannah. The laneways are lined with old oaks heavily draped with Spanish moss. The azaleas were in full bloom and their colour was truly mesmerizing. Angela took us through each of the sections of the cemetery with its beautiful statues and memorials. We walked to Johnny Mercer’s grave and stopped to learn about little Gracie Watson. Her grave adorned with one of the numerous beautifully detailed John Walz statues that you will find throughout Bonaventure. The abundance of trees and plants growing between the graves, the view of Wilmington River and the salt marshes left us ever amazed at the haunting beauty of this place.

Upon recommendation of a couple of other ladies on our tour, we had Angela drop us off at E. Shaver Books at the end of the tour. Our mission was to pick up a signed copy of John Berendt’s “Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil”. The bookseller is located on Bull Street directly across from Madison Square. Home to a myriad of books stacked on shelves lining several rooms, it is a treasure trove of literary works offering something for every lover of the written word. They even have a cozy little teashop.

Back on Tybee Island, the tide was out which made for a perfect afternoon of beachcombing. We found sand dollar fragments, shiny olive shells, and lots of cockle shells. By far, the most interesting were the cannonball jellies which were washed up on the sand, left behind by the retreating tide. They are shaped like a ball and look rubbery. I wasn’t daring enough to touch one but have now found out that they are non-stinging! So explore away 🙂

March 15 – Exploring Savannah on our own

After so many beautiful sights the previous day, we decided to drive back into Savannah today and explore on our own. We parked our car at the Visitors Information Center and, after checking out the Savannah History Museum, went to wait at the dot shuttle stop. The dot is a free bus service which provides transportation through Savannah’s Historic District. The shuttles run every 20 minutes. My daughter wanted to start at Forsyth Park so we hopped off on E. Hall and made our way over. The fountain, adorned with statues that look like a mix between mermen and satyrs, swans with arched heads spouting water and of course the figure at the top, is reminiscent of something one would find in Paris. The water had been dyed green for St. Patrick’s Day which sparkled in great contrast to the white figurines.

We walked along Bull Street past Monterey Square and made our way over to Abercorn where we had seen Clary’s the day before. Clary’s Drugstore, now turned Clary’s Café, was also one of the places in which some of the characters in the movie “Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil” ate and interacted. One of the most memorable scenes is when Luther is sitting at the counter with his vial of poison and his flies. We decided to stop in for a second breakfast and, much to our delight, were offered a seat at the counter. My daughter proudly proclaiming that she was now sitting in Luther’s spot. The food was absolutely delicious and I had to stop myself from licking the plate. The atmosphere is great and there is memorabilia and pictures throughout the café adding to the charm.

Belly’s full, we continued our walk down Abercorn to go and explore Colonial Park Cemetery. The cemetery was established in 1750 and is the resting place to many of Savannah’s earliest residents. One of the signors of the Declaration of Independence is also buried in this location. During the civil war, union soldiers were camped here and, story has that they changed the dates on many of the headstones.

Under a canopy of live oaks and more Spanish moss, we made our way along Oglethorpe to the corner of Bull St. There stands the Independent Presbyterian Church which was prominently featured at the beginning of Forest Gump. Remember the floating feather? This was the church! A hop skip and a jump and we were standing in Chippewa Square where Forrest Gump sat waiting for the bus with his box of chocolates. One of the benches used in the movie is on display at the Savannah History Museum we had visited earlier that morning.

We continued down Bull Street to Wright Square and turned left along W. York St. Next stop were the Telfair Museums. One last thing we wanted to see to make our “Midnight” portion of the trip complete, was the statue of the Bird Girl. We approached Telfair Square from W President St and caught a glimpse of the Telfair Academy through the trees. Could the buildings in this city get any more beautiful? Aydn reminded me that the Bird Girl was over at the Jepson, which is part of the Telfair Museums, so we took the short stroll over. At the time of our visit, admission was $20 USD for an adult and free for a child 12 and under. This included admission to all three of their sites: The Jepson Center, Telfair Academy, and Owens-Thomas house. I figured that wasn’t half bad so in we went. We checked out a couple of the exhibits currently on display at the Jepson and then we found the Bird Girl. Standing in a hallway, the sunlight illuminating her small body, she stood silently. It is a shame that she had to be moved from her home at Bonaventure Cemetery due to people being disrespectful of the plot she was resting on. One thing I found great is that picture taking was encourage, providing one did not use a flash. This was the case in any of the exhibits here and at the Telfair Academy.

After exploring the other exhibits at the Jepson, we wandered back over to the Telfair Academy. Built between 1818 and 1819, the mansion, a private residence until 1875 was willed to the Georgia Historical Society with the provision that it be opened as a museum. The sheer beauty of the rooms, the high ceilings, the detail in the molding running just below the glass roof and the half arch window at the top looking out over Telfair Square were an impressive sight. Never mind the art collection itself. Having oohed and aahed over every last piece on display, we made our way out the front door and hopped on the dot to visit the Owens-Thomas house. We hopped off the dot at E Broughton and Abercorn and made our way to Oglethorpe Square. The mansion silently rose in front of us. Built between 1816 and 1819, the large windows, pillars rising to hold the roof above the front door, and dual winding staircases hold an almost regal air. Truly a stunning work of architecture which was carried out throughout the mansion and the garden itself. The tour was about 45 minutes and definitely worth it. The Owens-Thomas house has some unique features that were ground breaking in their own day. Indoor plumbing 15 years before the White House had theirs?

And still we wanted to see more. We walked back to the dot stop and took the shuttle around to Johnson Square. From there we made our way down a narrow set of stairs to River Street. One can only image what this must have looked like back in the day! We walked along the street lined with unique shops selling trinkets and food, past the waving girl statue and on to the Landing Dock. Not only does the dot provide a free shuttle through the Historic District, there is a ferry service across to Hutchinson Island! And who doesn’t want a little cruise on the Savannah River? We boarded the small ferry, reminiscent of a steam boat, and enjoyed the ride over to Hutchinson Island. On the way back over to Savannah, we sat outside in the sun. The boat ride is no longer than 7 minutes but a fun little adventure nonetheless. On our way back along River Street we stopped into Byrd’s Cookies which I would highly recommend. The rear counter held countless jars of cookies of varying flavours and employees were handing out samples of utter yumminess. After making the difficult decision that we couldn’t purchase one of each flavour, we left the store grinning, with a couple of boxes of delicious treats in our hands. We found another set of stairs to take us back up to Bay St and made our way to Jefferson Ave to Club One where we took a picture of the memorial for The Lady Chablis. A quick trip on the dot and we were back at the Visitor Information Center.

On the way back to Tybee Island, we saw an Osprey sitting on a road sign surveying the marsh. Yes, there is the hustle and bustle of the city but there is a lot of wildlife, and raw nature here too.

March 16 – Back to Nature 

After two days of city adventures, it was time to explore the natural beauty of our surroundings. On our way down the I-17 on Monday, we had driven by a sign for the Savannah National Wildlife Refuge. We packed our lunches and set out by car. After a 45-minute drive, we were at the Refuge Visitor Center which is located in South Carolina. We grabbed a map, a couple of wildlife leaflets and headed back out to Route 170 which took us to Laurel Hill Wildlife Drive. Now, I had mentioned how chilly it had been on this trip. The sun had been out since the third day but the wind was cold and we were grateful for our heavy jackets and toques. Of course, we didn’t need these in the car on the drive but, at 7 Celcius we weren’t sure if we would see any large reptilians out and about. It was quite early in the day still too. But first, a little bit about the Wildlife Drive, it is open 7 days a week from sunrise to sunset. It forms a 4 mile, one-way loop, past swamps, lagoons, old oaks with overhanging branches and long tendrils of Spanish moss. We did get out of the car to walk to the birding blind in one spot but it was quite cold in with the wind.

 

 

We took our time on the drive, mostly staying around 5km/h. There were lots of coots swimming around in the ponds but no alligator yet or wait … what was that?! … just a log mummy, as Aydn so kindly pointed out. We followed the dirt road around a bend and through a heavy grove of oak trees to pull out in full view of a large gathering of snowy egrets, grey herons, and little blue herons. They were cavorting on the swamp and paid us no heed. At a distance from us, we could see another car pulled over so we decided to slowly make our way to their spot while keeping our eyes peeled. Sure enough … there it was … our very first alligator!! It was sitting at the water’s edge, cleverly camouflaged by the greyish mud. I’m glad I was up on the road and he was down there! After taking some pictures and chatting with the people from the other car who gave us some insight on where we should plan our next trip, we slowly continued along the last 2 miles of the drive. We found a group of vultures squabbling over some decaying thing or another and watched them for a bit. At last Aydn yelled that there was another alligator. This one was sitting in the sun on the grass in beautiful contrast. Still creepy though! We got out, snapped some more pictures and exited the wildlife drive onto Route 170.

On the way back to Tybee Island, I had promised my daughter that we would stop at Oatland Island Wildlife Center. For a nominal fee ($5 adult, $3 child), we were able to walk the trail past naturally designed habitats of various local predators and other animals. The trail itself was stunning, leading through the unique forest of oak, sweetbay magnolia, past ponds and marshes. The center is part of the Savannah-Chatham Board of Education and there were a couple of school groups there when we went. Despite this, we still managed to get away from the crowds.

Back on Tybee Island, we parked the car at the hotel and continued on our quest for wildlife with a visit to the Tybee Island Marine Science Center. Not particularly large, it still offers a nice displays of local sea life. They even had a young loggerhead sea turtle which will be released back into the wild in April. The only thing that I am disappointed by is that we were unable to join on one of their many beach walks and talks. Mainly due to the fact that we were leaving the next day.

We walked back up to the hotel to make our sandwiches for dinner as we were booked on a sunset dolphin cruise. That’s right! Nature day from beginning to end! Our bag packed, we dressed warm and grabbed our mittens and hats before driving over to the boat dock for Captain Derek’s Dolphin Tours. Because we still had some time, we made a stop at North Beach to go exploring and took some picture of Tybee Island Lighthouse which was unfortunately already closed for the day. Next time!

Back along US 80, we stopped for a quick look at the colourful metal sculptures and trinkets at “Fish Art”. Oh do I ever wish we had more time! We arrived at Captain Derek’s about 30 minutes before the tour was scheduled to depart. I still can’t get over the amount of palm trees that line the streets here. We checked in with Captain Chris before getting our things together. We grabbed a blanket from the car, our dinner, toques and mitts, and headed over to the ramp down to the boat. There were so many pelicans playing in Lazaretto Creek. One flew quite close over our heads. I’m always surprised at how large these birds are. And, at last, it was time to board. Pirate flag joyfully fluttering in the breeze, we set sail into the sunset. Captain Derek’s repartee kept us entertained to no end. We rode out past Cockspur Island Lighthouse and onto the Atlantic. The boat took us past beautiful North Beach and we got another good look at the Tybee Island Light House.

On our quest to find bottle nose dolphins we saw a lot of other wildlife, including the Tybee Island pterodactyl … wait, what?! Captain Chris had us in stitches! And then, there they were … dolphins! We watched as a mother and her baby surfaced, disappeared under water, and resurfaced. And over there! Another dolphin!

We stayed watching the dolphins for quite a while, listening to Captain Chris tell us about the marine life in the area and other local history. As the sun was starting to set, we turned the boat around to head back toward Cockspur Island. We were given ample opportunity for beautiful shots of Cockspur lighthouse with the sun setting red in the background. An absolutely wonderful tour which I would definitely take again … and again.

A little later that evening, we joined our new friends, whom we had just met on Captain Derek’s Dolphin Cruise, for some ice cream at Beach Bites. Umm warmed brownies covered with piles and piles of soft serve ice cream, whip cream and a cherry on top? Yes, please!! After indulging ourselves, we took a starlit stroll to the end of the pier. The stars seemingly close enough to touch, it was simply marvelous enjoying the fresh, evening sea air on our faces and discussing constellations, traveling and life in general.

March 17 – Happy St. Patrick’s Day!! … and back to Rock Hill, SC

We rose early again today to catch a shuttle into Savannah. Our plans had been to leave by car early and avoid the St Patrick’s Day parade altogether but, when we found out about the shuttle service being offered on parade day, well … who can miss what is boasted as the second largest St. Patrick’s Day Parade in the United States?

Having packed the car the night before, we grabbed the last of our belongings, said goodbye to our cozy little room and dropped our keys off. We drove our car to a larger lot which had been pre-arranged with the lovely people at the Atlantis Inn and, camping chairs in tow, we made our way to catch the 6.30 am shuttle into Savannah. You heard me … 6.30 am!

We were dropped off at E. Broughton and Barr, right near the parade route. The sidewalks were lined with chairs and tent shelters everywher

e the eye could see. Aydn and I made the short trek over to Abercorn and headed up to Oglethorpe Square where we set up our chairs on what was still an empty stretch of sidewalk. With the parade not starting for another 3 hours, it was time to go in search of breakfast. I remembered seeing a breakfast joint on our walk along Broughton so, back we went. And what a great decision this was!! Breakfast at the Funky Brunch should not be missed. They have tables that have hotplates built into the center where you can make your own pancakes! We ended up having our kitchen cakes made for us and boy oh boy were we ever surprised when they were ready. Two steaming stacks of thick pancakes arrived at our table with a side of home fries. The pancakes were fluffy and warm and filled with delectable fruit! I had to refrain from licking my plate clean.

Stuffed to the brim, we wobbled out of the restaurant to make our way back to our chairs. The early morning rays of the sun were slowly tickling the sleepy streets awake. More and more people were wandering the streets as we walked along E Broughton to get to our spot. We turned the corner to Oglethorpe Square and wow … the hustle and bustle was overwhelming! Every available inch of real estate on either side of our chairs had now been filled in. Was I ever glad that I dragged my sleepwalking child onto the 6.30 am shuttle!

We quickly became amalgamated with the large family group to our one side. Learned about more not to miss places in Savannah and participated in some impromptu sidewalk art. And then there it was … the parade was about to start. The excitement in the square was electric! Everywhere you looked people, dressed in green and white, ready to celebrate their Irish Heritage. And, from what I found out, Savannah has a rather large Irish population.

The parade itself was 3.5 hours of music, dancing, cheers and fun. And I learned that I need to buy some lipstick for next time! One of the customs in Savannah is for the women to run out and kiss the men and boys on the cheek. The men proudly paraded by adorned with their kissy marks. The ladies at my side had their lipstick in hand, ready to reapply between smooches. Truly an endearing custom.

As soon as the last performer danced past us, the street cleaners swept by announcing the end of the parade. We said our farewells and made our way back to the shuttle pick up. Back on Tybee Island, we loaded the chairs into the car and took one last stroll along 16th Street before buckling ourselves into the seats of our trusty road trip mobile and turning the wheel direction home. I have never had a more difficult time leaving at place at the end of a trip. Savannah, we will be back.

Cruising along the 17, we decided to do one more loop of the Laurel Hill Wildlife drive. Compared to the last few days were the temperature had stayed in the single digits, today we were pushing 20 degrees celcius! There were sure to be more alligators out today! Lunches on our laps, windows rolled down, eyes peeled, we turned onto the gravel loop. Not only did we see a lot more alligators today, we were lucky to encounter a beautiful bald eagle soaking up the rays on a tree right next to the road!

We had decided to stay in the same place as we did on the way down. Normally, we drive in a loop so that the drive home is different than the drive out. However, the decision to retrace our steps ended up working in our favour the next day.

March 18 – Rock Hill, SC to Home

Again it was raining in Rock Hill, SC as I was packing up the car with what little we had taken to the room the night before. After having breakfast at the lodge, we made our way over to the gas station to ensure our little blue friend had a full belly before setting out on the long trek back.

One of the stops that we decided we would absolutely make was New River Gorge. On the way south along the 19 a mere 7 days before, we had noticed a road which went all the way down to the river. This absolutely needed to be explored! It took us a little bit of figuring out until we realized that the Fayette Station Road started from the Canyon Rim Visitor Center. The drive along the one-way road was incredible. Steep switchbacks carved into the canyon walls, views of the New River Bridge, the approaching water below and the gorgeous sky. When we got down to the old rail road bridge, we decided to cross and park on the other side. There is wider parking spot on the right-hand side of the bridge before you cross over.

Breathing in the fresh air, we walked across the bridge and stared up at the gorgeous arched wonder spanning the sky above. The water was flowing fast and I was definitely missing my kayak at that moment. We drove on a little further and parked at the put in so we could wander down to the river. There were a few paddlers getting ready to set out on the river. Aydn and I went down to climb around on the rocks at the river’s edge. The beauty of this very spot was overwhelming and we sat for a moment, taking it all in.

The drive back up the other side of the canyon was just as stunning. Past little waterfalls, rock outcroppings and more stunning views, our little mobile made its way back to the top. West Virginia truly is wild and wonderful. This is a spot we will come back to and explore more thoroughly. The nearby Gauley River promises many different adventures.

We met up with the I 79 just South of Sutton, WV and followed it North to Erie, PA before getting on the I 90 toward the Lewiston Border Crossing. Most of Pennsylvania was spent in a snow storm and I as eternally grateful for having kept my snow tires on for this trip. You just never know what March holds in store in this part of the country.

We pulled into our parking spot at home around 9.30 pm that night. Glad to have made it home safe but missing the warm Savannah sun from the previous day.

And already I started dreaming of where to go next 😉